Towering over Lombok island, just east of Bali, is the mighty 12,224-foot-tall Mt. Rinjani. The volcano is still active and has erupted as recently as 2016. With many surrounding microclimates and a large lake in the middle, Rinjani provides beautiful scenery and challenging opportunities for the capable trekker. Indonesia may not come to mind first when thinking of places to trek, but Rinjani is as complete an adventure as I’ve had anywhere.
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We had been in West Sumbawa for a few days looking for surf when the charts began to look dismal. No swell on the horizon. Time to go we supposed… Back to Bali? Ehh. Waves would be flat there too, and I wasn’t feeling like partying again. Mt. Rinjani had been on my mind since I saw her and this seemed like the time to go.
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After asking around, it seemed like hiring a guide was the way to go for Rinjani. This was new to me. I have always just gone with friends and done our own research. But unless you came all the way to Indonesia to trek and flew all your gear with you, you likely won’t have a tent, sleeping bag, etc… It was also echoed by those I spoke with that by hiring a guide, you are supporting the surrounding villages, and this is a good way to be a respectful traveler. I asked around at the homestays I was at and to those I met in cafes who had been to Mt. Rinjani before. Adi Trekker was the most highly recommended and I decided to go with them.
On the ferry from Sumbawa to Lombok.
Another plus to hiring a guide is that they will pick you up wherever you arrive and take you straight to the village you start from. I met the driver at the port and we were on our way. He navigated the chaotic streets full of stray dogs and other moving miscellanea like an expert. We arrived to Desa Senaru in the late evening and went over a quick outline of the trip. Afterwards, we had dinner at our accommodation and were off to sleep.
At 6am we woke to crisp, clear skies and a beautiful view of the mountain. We had a quick breakfast and coffee before we met our fellow trekkers and guides. We loaded into the van and began the drive from Senaru to Sembalun. Young children on their way to school ran alongside the van and waved at the foreigners. Local markets were just getting going for the day. Locals and families lined the streets, opening their shops, chatting. Smiles everywhere.
A quick medical check and we were off.
We started the trek under perfect weather. The Sembalun area has an open grassland, savanna-like feel to it. Walking in the shade of the forests was nice, but quickly we made our way out of the forest and into the open, sun-drenched plain. Covering exposed skin was the name of the game. Many who didn’t were bright red and uncomfortable.
The spirit of the Indonesian hustle was ever-present along the first few miles. Motorbikes brought snacks, coffee, fruit, etc… to the small warungs along the way.
Our porters were excellent chefs and cooked us a variety of simple and tasty meals along the way. The spread of food they brought along blew our minds at every meal. This is something I had certainly never experienced while trekking.
L to R; Our guides, Win and Aweng. One of the porters navigating the steep terrain with ease. And in slippers! A Warung put together by some of the porters at the top. Gotta respect the hustle.
Views from the crater rim looking both directions. Camp 1.
The intoxicating aroma of fish sauce/shrimp bouillon was never far behind the sound of oil beginning to crackle. The porters were cracking jokes and roasting each other the whole time while cooking and hanging at camp. Beautiful souls, every one of em.
We ate a delicious dinner and watched the sunset from camp before crawling into our tents for the evening. It got cold very quick. Our 2am wake up was looming.
Everyone awoke at 2am and got started after a coffee and some toast. The wind was whipping, the air frigid as we worked our way up the scree slopes. As we got higher and the vegetation disappeared, the footing became looser and looser. There was no avoiding rocks in your shoes anymore. We chatted with other groups and laughed at ourselves as we hid from the howling wind behind rocks. At this point, nearly everyone was wondering why they had decided to do this. Those feelings would soon fade very quickly.
After what felt like an eternity in the dark, dawn began to break on the horizon. We finally reached the top just before sunrise. We huddled together and I whipped out the sleeping bag I had brought just in case. Very glad I did. Mother earth, Pachamama, put on a wild show as we all shuffled around in awe on the small summit plateau.
After just a day and a half, Win and Aweng felt like long lost brothers and their exuberant yet gracefully calm presence was contagious.
After the summit we had a big breakfast and recounted the morning. Everyone was elated. Most of the group was only going for the 2 day/1 night trip. Everyone except Aweng, one porter and I headed back the way we ascended. The three of us descended from the crater rim towards the lake. It was steep, vertical, knee-testing. After a while, we reached the lake and the hot springs.
Unfortunately, like other parts of Indonesia, trash is prevalent in hot spots on Rinjani. As a foreign visitor, many thoughts flood the mind. I came to the ultimate conclusion all I can do is leave the place better than I found it. So I filled my pockets with trash as we walked and did what I could. Our guides also told us that once a month the national park workers run clean ups and that one would be happening soon.
Climbing out of the crater was steep and rocky. And certainly challenging after a 2am wake up and an already long day.
Our camp for night 2. The summit is barely visible off in the distance to the left. Our camp the night before would’ve been along the barely visible ridge somewhere along the cloud line.
We arrived in the early afternoon and a quick nap was certainly in order after 12 hours of moving. Crackling oil and fish sauce again filled the air. Groups talked story with each other and the guides shared stories about previous eruptions, what it was like during the pandemic etc…
Aweng taught me how to make sambal in a water bottle with a stick. Lombok means chili. He insisted that the reason the people of lombok live so long is because they eat so much locally grown rice and chili. Every meal.
Sunrise from the tent on day 3.
3 or 4 months prior, I was late for work and realized I had forgotten my shoes at home. There was a Ross nearby and I found a $15 size 12 pair of shoes. Score. Now they were on my feet in Indonesia descending the rim of a volcano. They were thin and certainly not meant for this but they held up alright.
Boss man.
The monkeys in this area were quite forward but not rude. Barked but didn’t bite.
We ran into some of Aweng’s friends from the village who were out camping. He knew pretty much everyone along the way, especially once we got to this side. Near his village.
The walking was easy and fast at this point. We flew downhill. We passed many groups who very clean with brand new gear, just starting their trek. Continually asking how much further.
Our driver was waiting for us when we finished and drove us back to the inn where we left our things. The nearby village of Senaru is beautiful and rootsy.
We said our final goodbyes and the driver and I headed towards the port in Kuta. A 3 hour drive through mountains, villages, and cities. This was the last frame on my point and shoot which is why the edge has that film burn. I shot tall these photos on my iphone and a kodak funsaver.